Carolyn's Travel Blog

Le Côte d'Azur 6th Day — Saturday, July 18, 2009

2009-07-18T16:42:00.000-07:00

NICE — The beach and Carolyn's twist of fate

Of course, as fate would have it – the wind has kicked up and the day is cool. That beautiful azure blue sea that I have been dying to go into is now choppy and cloudy. Keep in mind that it is still the most amazing blue that you will ever see, but it is thrashing about with white caps and tossing people around like rag dolls. I am frustrated, but realize that we have many more days to enjoy a day when the sea will be at rest. Nevertheless, I am determined (or foolish – you choose) to go in, and Jon watches me as I carefully enter the surf —unfortunately, I end up twisting my knee in the process. You see, Nice doesn't have a sandy beach -- there are these smooth 1-3" gray pebbles that you must navigate an entry on. Sure enough, I plant my leg in the rocks and the surf proceeds to bend my knee in such a way that it normally doesn't bend. Alas, I am now limping and on a combination of Ibuprofen and wine. I am hoping that it is just a sprain and not a serious injury. Time will tell. By the way... even with the surf ... the water was marvelous! As were the wall-to-wall sunbathers. There were only a handful of topless gals (young and old), I'm sure by week's end I'll be tossing off my top as casually as a smoker flicks away a cigarette butt. As they say... when in Rome....

The inviting sea on a calmer day

We end the day shopping for dinner and even with an iced-knee, I manage to cook a tasty meal -- chicken breast with fresh tomatoes, onion, garlic and green pepper with potatoes, green beans and a cheap bottle of Bordeaux (about $2.50, and it sure beats two-buck Chuck!). For some reason it tastes better than a home-cooked meal in Pasadena. I'm guessing it's a combination of inspiration and being in one of the most romantic places in the world. You just FEEL like cooking! Bon Appetit.

Le Côte d'Azur 5th Day — Friday, July 17, 2009

2009-07-18T16:39:00.000-07:00

NICE — Bus tour, Matisse Museum and Monastère de Cimiez

STILL not in the water yet... am I crazy? Yes, another hot day in Nice, but I have promised Jon that we will go on a "real" tour of the city. Suffice it to say, we hoped on open-top bus and it carted us around. Most of the places we had found on our own already, but the harbor and surrounding hills we had not been to and were beautiful.

Nice Harbor

We made a stop at the top of the hill in a beautiful area called Cimiez, this is where we toured the Matisse museum and saw them setting up the stage for the Nice Jazz Festival. We are definitely going to go a couple of nights to the Festival -- especially on Tuesday to see my favorite boy --- James Taylor. What a setting -- in the hills above Nice among olive trees .... ahhh.

Getting ready for the Nice Jazz Festival

The Matisse museum is good, but it doesn't have his most influential work -- I'm guessing it's at the Hermitage in St. Petersburg, or in Paris. What's really interesting is that just outside of the Matisse museum there are some 5th century B.C. Roman ruins -- it reminds you of how old the city really is -- even though Nice didn't become part of France until the mid 19th century.

The Matisse Museum

Inside the Matisse Museum before I was kindly asked to put my camera away!

Roman Ruins outside of the Museum

On the way out of the Matisse museum, we walk two blocks to the beautiful Church and gardens of Monastère de Cimiez. The gardens are absolutely breathtaking with a view of the surrounding hillsides and the Nice coastline. Jon does his best impersonation of Cary Grant in "To catch a thief." It needs work.

My Dear, My Dear, My Dear.... Jon in front of the rooftops ala "To Catch a Thief"

10 Years and going strong...

Monsieur Romer

The Princess

The Magnificent Gardens of Monastère de Cimiez

No wonder the Impressionist painters were in love with the South of France!

More Impressionist inspiration

We end the day on Rue Masséna, another quaint stretch of town with shops and restaurants. We end up.. where else? Yet another Italian Restaurant. Tomorrow... I will cook!

Rue Masséna at Night

We get back to the flat at 11pm, and the lack of sleep has caught up with me. I am so desperately tired that I can't move. I take a shower and go immediately to bed. I promise Jon and myself that tomorrow will be a "do nothing" day. I will get up late, have a leisurely breakfast and head on down to the water when I feel like it.

Le Côte d'Azur 4th Day — Thursday, July 16, 2009

2009-07-18T16:31:00.001-07:00

NICE — La "Promenade des Anglais and Vieux Nice (Old Nice)

Still not in the water yet, and it is another hot and humid day on the Cote de Azur. We start the day with a walk down la "Promenade des Anglais." It would be our first long day walk along the famous stretch. I stop to take snapshots of the sunbathers and parasailers and imagine myself floating in that beautiful blue water.

The famous Nice Parasols along La Promenade des Anglais

Princess Caroline

Alas, we keep walking and end up in "Cours Selaya" a market place which is the entry way to "Old Nice." When we arrive it's mid-afternoon and we see restaurants setting-up. Ends up that the Cours Selaya and Old Nice awaken in the evening. It's not uncommon to be having dinner at 9 or 10pm. After all, the afternoons can be hot (thus- the reason for the "siesta"), and the days are long in the summer. Nice is like a meditteranean version of New York, at least in the summer it is. If you're hungry at 2 a.m. -- there will be a place open for you! It seems this place was custom-made for the me.

We move on to "Vieux Nice" which translates to "Old Nice" — a conglomeration of narrow streets and old buildings with merchants, restaurants and bars. The streets are 10 feet wide in some parts with a surprise at every turn. Sometimes you will end up in a plaza, other times there will be old steps leading nowhere. Old Nice is hidden behind a facade of buildings, so if you were walking along the la Promenade des Anglais, you would never know that it's there. It is a hidden gem.

Old Nice

After a full day of wandering the quaint streets we are hungry. I brought a printout of the top 20 restaurants in Nice and #6 on the list is one called "Restaurant du Gesu" in Old Nice. Supposedly, it has the best bang for your buck... or should I say "euro." By luck, Jon spots the place and they tell us they don't open until 7pm. It's 6pm, so we decide to wander about until they open. We return at 7:05, to find that the place is practically full already! The restaurant has ample outdoor seating, and even though it's between buildings, it's oddly cooler there -- so we're happy. The food is yummy, and worth the wait (and price!). Margherita Pizza for only 7.50 € (that's $10.50 in U.S. dollars)! Even though this is France, the Provence region has such an Italian influence, that some of the best restaurants are Italian! On the next table I get chatting with a friendly British woman and her family from Newcastle. By meals end, we're friends and we exchange email addresses. After days of struggling with my elementary French, I am at ease speaking our common language. The day finishes with a stroll down la Promenade Des Anglais (one can never get tired of this).

Video of Sainte-Réparade Square in Old Nice

Le Côte d'Azur 3rd Day — Wednesday, July 15, 2009

2009-07-18T16:29:00.000-07:00

NICE — Settling in and the hike to the Chagall Museum

Jonny sleeps in while I go shopping for a baguette and some groceries. We are conveniently one block from a fantastic "boulangerie" (so much for my diet) and a quaint open-air market and a poisson (fish) merchant - I look forward to cooking some fresh fish soon. The grocery store is also on this block — it is small, but well-stocked. You put your groceries in a wheeled basket with a telescoping handle (like luggage) -- I wish we had baskets in the states like that!

Open air market one block from the apartment

The fab shopping cart and WALL of Yogurt

There was also a whole wall dedicated to yogurt -- an important staple in the French diet. We will eat it everyday to keep our insides healthy -- especially with all the carbs that we will be eating in the days to come. An Atkin's diet here would be next to impossible. The bread is THAT good!

We get a late start because we are still jet-lagged. The day is hot and humid, so we decide to walk to the Chagall Museum. The walk is longer than expected, but the museum was worth every mile. Huge colorful paintings depicting Chagall's Biblical Series. Chagall, was a Russian Jew who's given name was "Mark Zakharovich Shagal." The works depicted the Song of Songs, Jacob's Dream, Adam and Eve Expelled from Paradise, etc. Simply framed, they works were breathtaking.

The Chagall Museum

Close up of Chagall Painting in honor of our Anniversary "L'amour"

Starved and tired, we end the day with a dinner along the bustling Rue Massina, and a stroll along the Promenade Des Anglais. Tomorrow I am getting in that water!

Monsieur Jean Romer et la mer

La Promenade Des Anglais

Le Côte d'Azur 2nd Day — Tuesday, July 14, 2009

2009-07-18T16:16:00.000-07:00

NICE – Happy Bastille Day!!

The long 10-hour overnight flight from L.A. to Paris was made easier by getting exit row seats and sitting next to a nice Italian gentleman named Marou. Born in Milan and living in the U.S. for the last few years, he was returning home for a week to see the folks. We all spoke of France and Italy with anticipation. Of course, as usual, I channeled Oprah Winfrey, and by flight's-end I knew his whole life story and girlfriend troubles. He graciously asked us to call him, and he would give us tips when we made our way up to Italy. We just may do that!

After a short flight from Paris to Nice, we spot Hans outside of baggage claim holding up a neatly-typed sign "Jon and Carolyn Romer." Just by the look of the sign I KNEW that he had a swingin' pad! Hans is a kind gentleman of German descent who traveled the world with his family and settled upon Nice in his retirement. Hans and his wife Annie, also have a country home in the town of Montauroux, which is a 40-minute drive inland from the coast. They will be staying at the home while we are in their apartment, so I can call him at anytime if we run into trouble. As Hans drives us from the airport in style (a late model Mercedes wagon), we get our first look at the beautiful coastline of Nice — turquoise and blue waters — a true "Côte d'Azur" (Coast of blue) with small smooth pebbles, and an ocean-front promenade called the "Promenade Des Anglais" (Promenade of the English) filled with couples strolling – young and old — families, and young revelers preparing for the party to come. After all, it is "Bastille Day" and as Hans says "We are welcoming you to France with fireworks!" For those who don't know, Bastille Day commemorates the 1790 Fête de la Fédération, held on the first anniversary of the storming of the Bastille on 14 July 1789.

We arrive at 57 Rue du Maréchal Joffre — a 1920's art-deco building with a beautiful facade, romantic iron filigree balconies with flowers, marble flooring — gorgeous.

The front of our art deco apartment — Tres Magnifique!

We go up 3 stories in an old-fashioned cage elevator right out of the movie "Blade Runner." I like cage elevators. They have the polished mechanical elegance that only certain things that were painstakingly designed and crafted have.

Our "Blade Runner-esque" Cage Elevator

When we enter the apartment, it is even more beautiful than the photos. Photos really can't capture the light that streams through the tall 10-foot windows, the smell of the boulangerie a block away or the sound of the occasional 2-note siren only heard in Europe. We look out the back balcony into the patio and notice so much of the flora is similar to southern California -- fan palms, canary island date palms, magnolias, pines, oleander, bougainvillea. The air is slightly heavy and warm — similar to Hawaii or Bermuda. We both realize we brought too many pants. It seems that I will be living in shorts and sundresses. The extra 8 pounds that I didn't lose now haunts me.

Our "Room with a View"

Short video of the apartment

After settling in, and a short nap, we have no time to waste. We must make it down to the shore in time to see the Bastille Day fireworks! It is a perfect night. There are two bands playing on the promenade — one struggling with American blues and the other Brazilian pop.

Video of our first night in Nice!

The firework show is long and spectacular. It makes me feel very Franco-American. The party girl in me wants to stay, but Jon is dead-tired and hungry, so we make our way back and stop for some yummy thin-crust pizza and a salad. Tomorrow we will get to know Nice. But first ... sleep.

Video of Bastille Day Fireworks!

Le Côte d'Azur 1st Day — Monday, July 13, 2009

2009-07-18T16:07:00.000-07:00

First Day of our 10th Anniversary trip to the Côte d'Azur (South of France)

Homeexchange.com has come through again with yet another fabulous home exchange! In February I got an email from a kind couple (Hans and Annie Blaasch) in Nice, France asking if we would be interested in a non-simultaneous exchange with them for the desert house. We could come in July (during the Nice Jazz Fest!), and they would come in October. As tempted as it sounded, I told Jon that we really couldn't afford it. He convinced me that we could do this on a shoestring (although there are no travel books entitled "The French Riviera on a Shoestring"), and, after all, July 11 would be our 10 year-anniversary of wedded bliss (okay, a slight exaggeration on the bliss part), and what better place to celebrate than in the South of France! In my attempt to ready myself for the trip – and for potential topless bathing – I have tried to lose 10 pounds, but have only lost 2. Jon on the other hand, has lost 15 pounds (!@$##%) and is back to wearing his size 34 pants! I have promised myself to stay with my diet and exercise regime, even though I will be tempted with eclairs and wine. Wish me luck.

I'm also going to attempt to start my travel blog again. I am not making any promises this time on making daily entries. After all I will be busy trying to catch glimpses of Gilles Marini. You know – the hot, Cannes-born actor on last season's "Dancing with the Stars." Again, wish me luck.

Scotland 17th Day — July 15, 2008

2008-07-16T08:56:00.001-07:00

Depart to Boston from Edinburgh

Blog to come

Scotland 16th Day — July 14, 2008

2008-07-16T08:55:00.001-07:00

Edinburgh and last day in Scotland

Blog to come

Scotland 16th Day — July 14, 2008

2008-07-16T08:55:00.000-07:00

Edinburgh and last day in Scotland

Blog to come

Scotland 15th Day — July 13, 2008

2008-07-16T08:54:00.000-07:00

Our last day in Stirling (weep)

Blog to come

Scotland 14th Day — July 12, 2008

2008-07-12T16:07:00.000-07:00

The Trossachs National Park — Loch Katrine and Loch Lomond

To celebrate our anniversary in a more "romantic" fashion, rather than golfing — we take our long overdue trip to the Trossachs National Park, a mere half hour west of us. We drive through the quaint town of Callander and reach Loch Katrine, where we board the little steam ship "Sir Walter Scott" (who published his poem "The Lady of the Lake" in 1810, which was about this very body of water). The famous Rob Roy MacGregor was born on the banks of the loch in 1671, so this is considered "Rob Roy" country. About eight miles long, and one mile wide, it is the major water source of the city of Glasgow. It was a cloudy day, but the loch was a site to behold. Check out me bonnie video clip...

Me wee video of Loch Katrine

On the "Sir Walter Scott" steam boat

Loch Katrine

A wee tart enjoying the cruise

After our cruise, we hop in the car to venture to the west side of Loch Lomond (by the way—"loch" means "lake"), about a half hour south of Loch Katrine. We drive through the windy roads of the national park through "Dukes Pass" and happen upon a smaller loch called Loch Venachar, which is quite lovely, so I make me wee devil, Jonny pull the car over so I can snap a pic. Isn't it grand?

Loch Venachar

We finally get to the west side of Loch Lomond, and pass by many cars exiting the Loch Lomond Golf Club, where the Scottish Open is being played RIGHT NOW. I tell Jonny to please "look away" and keep driving (in the same way I must "look away" from chocolate and Scottish shortbread).

We finally arrive at our destination — the little town of "Luss" with a beautiful view of Loch Lomond (the largest lake in the Trossachs). We find a beautiful place to dine in the Lodge at Loch Lomond, facing the lake. I have lamb and a glass of cab, and Jonny has chicken....ahhh....a step up from my usual fish n' chips. It was yummy to say the least.

The wee town of "Luss"

View of Loch Lomond

The Lodge at Loch Lomond

Our "anniversary dinner" at the Lodge with a picture-perfect view of Loch Lomond

My dish -- lamb with spicy risotto (yummy)

A step above Scottish fare!

At the end of the meal, I notice some men at the bar in typical "Highland" dress -- kilts and all (very cute). So I go up to them and ask if I can take a pic with them, tart that I am. Of course, they don't mind -- and we all get-a-talkin'. Turns out they're attending a wedding at the Lodge, and they invite Jonny and I to sit down with them while they're taking a break from the reception. The guys talk golf, and before you know it -- we have an open invite to "Loch Ness" whenever we want -- and that includes being their guest at Royal Dornoch, one of the top rated golf courses in Scotland! (Jonny is thrilled). And since I was a wee bit sad at not making it up to see the monster, I am relieved that I will get a chance on our next visit to this beautiful land. The Scots are truly some of the nicest people in the world.

Again... me "tartness" comes in handy, and Jonny agrees. By the way, I asked the boys—and they confirmed it... Scots wear absolutely NO KNICKERS under their kilts!! (sly grin)

The wee tart with her "Highland" boys from Loch Ness

Back to the flat, as it's getting dark. We are melancholy on the way back, as we realize we must return to the U.S. in a couple of days, and our Scotland trip is soon coming to an end.

Scotland 13th Day — July 11, 2008

2008-07-12T16:02:00.000-07:00

Happy 9th Anniversary!
Kilmarnock (Brassie) Golf Club in Ayrshire and dinner in Troon

A long, challenging Open Championship qualifying links course with narrow fairways.

Blog to come

Scotland 12th Day — July 10th, 2008

2008-07-10T19:24:00.000-07:00

Visit to "The Famous Grouse" Distillery in Crieff and Glen Eagles Hotel and Golf Course

Still catching up with me blog. Look at July 5 & 6, as that is updated now!

Scotland 11th Day — July 9th, 2008

2008-07-10T19:23:00.000-07:00

Anstruther, Crail, East Neuk and 2nd day at St. Andrews, Kingdom of Fife

Blog to come.

Scotland 10th Day — July 8th, 2008

2008-07-10T19:20:00.000-07:00

Anstruther and Lundin Links, Kingdom of Fife

Blog to come.

Scotland 9th Day — July 7, 2008

2008-07-08T13:07:00.000-07:00

Crail Golf and Anstruther, Kingdom of Fife

Way behind on me blog, merely because we have been so busy enjoying this country,by the time the day comes to an end, I either sleep, or blog -- so I choose sleep. Tomorrow will be me blog catch up day. So in the meantime, watch the video of Jonny's 40-foot birdie putt on the 4th hole at Balcomie Links in Crail. (Tiger woods...watch out!)...

Scotland 8th Day — July 6, 2008

2008-07-06T12:39:00.000-07:00

St. Andrews in the Kingdom of Fife

Left the flat at 8:00am to be in St. Andrews by 10:00am. We HAD to be there for the once-a-week, in-depth tour of the "Old Course." This tour is only run in the summer and on Sundays, when the course is closed to players, but open to the public.

We made it there a little past 9:00am with the help of "Miss Navi" — our name for the TomTom navigational device that Alistaire lent to us yesterday. It came in VERY handy, since it rained all the way there—and it she speaks in "British" english!

Yes, another crappy day. When we arrived at St. Andrews, the wind was blowing HARD, visibility was bad, about 55 degrees with horizontal rain — and it pretty much stayed that way the whole day. It was grueling, but worth it. Our guide, "Jimmy" (it seems like every other lad in Scotland is named, Jimmy) gave us a 3 1/2 hour tour of just about every hole of St. Andrews "Old Course." If you don't know it already, the Old Course is the oldest golf course in the world, dating back to 1506. Tiger Woods and Jack Nicklaus have both won the British Open here twice. Green fees are £130 to play the course (that's $260), so it would be a hefty expense if the weather wasn't cooperative. We'll see if the wee devil decides to part with that much money for a 4-hour bragging right (I'd rather he not, and say he did).

Our Guide "Jimmy"

Jonny in the "Road Hole Bunker"

In front of the Royal and Ancient Golf Club of St. Andrews

On the famous "Swilken Bridge"

Standing in front of the 17th Road Hole Tee Shot

Jonny in front of "Hell" bunker (yikes!)

The beach in front of St. Andrews where they filmed "Chariots of Fire" (Jonny will attempt to recreate the run on a later day, when the sun is out)

After the tour, and a much-needed lunch, we walk down the street towards the ruins of St. Andrews cathedral. It's all very ghostly and misty amongst the gravestones. It is 157 steps up St. Rule's tower, so we give it a go. Supposedly, it is the best view in St. Andrews....

St. Rules tower

Unfortunately, the view is covered in fog, so all we can see is the two church spires. We now know that we MUST come back on another day to see what this really should look like.

Our limited view atop St. Rule's tower

Down the street from the cathedral, we walk to the ruins of St. Andrews Castle. Not much of this 12th century castle is left, except a few walls...but what is left is marvelous. Apparently, the site of many sieges, mines were dug underneath the castle to defend it. I brave the underground visit to these mines, which at times you almost have to crawl through. Creepy, but fascinating.

In front on St. Andrew's Castle

The Lassie in front of St. Andrew's Castle

The mine underneath St. Andrew's Castle

Weary, we head back on the hour-and-a-half drive home, as we must return again tomorrow at 7:30am to be in Crail (which is south of St. Andrews), for a 9:20am tee-time. Whew!

Scotland 7th Day — July 5, 2008

2008-07-05T15:04:00.000-07:00

Argyll's Lodging and (Monty Python's) Doune Castle

Aye, it's another cold, gray day here in Stirling. Just for the heck of it, I decide to check out the temps in Indian Wells this week. If you multiply our outside temperature of 55˚ by two — then you get it... a scorching 110˚. If you don't believe me, check it out fer yerselves:

Scotland Temps and Indian Wells Temps (ouch!)

Alright, enough of that nonsense and on with the day. We begin with a morning tour of Argyll's Lodging — Scotland's finest surviving renaissance mansion. A 17th Century town residence built circa 1630 by Sir William Alexander, founder of Nova Scotia. He became Secretary of State for Scotland and was appointed the first Earl of Stirling. A nice tour, but the most fascinating thing I discovered there was a resident living within it's walls....one of the largest spiders this lassie has ever seen....eeek!

Argyll's Lodging (on a sunny day)

The inside of Argyll's Lodging

Mr. Big Spidey in Argyll's Lodging

After that, we strolled up towards the castle and stopped in the Church of the Holy Rude (Rude meaning "cross"). A 15th century church with magnificent stained glass windows and one of Scotland's rare, surviving, medieval open timber roofs. I will try to go to the service next Sunday -- apparently, it has the largest pipe organ in Scotland.

Inside the Church of the Holy Rude

Stained Glass in the Church of the Holy Rude

As we make our way back to the house for lunch, we pass a 1929 "Boys Club", so I must take a photo in front of it. Jon calls me a "tart", and I smile.

Where the boys are

The Tart near the Old Town Jail in Sterling

After lunch, we're off to the town of "Doune", which is 8 miles northwest of Stirling. It's still cold and rainy, but it makes for a perfect setting for my visit to the famous Doune Castle, where many scenes of "Monty Python and the Holy Grail" were filmed. Remember the "French Taunting" scene? Here's my very corny version of it:

I also took a wee bit of a stroll up the castle turret to see the view of the small village of Doune. The stairs were steep and it was a bit creepy inside, as I seemed to be the only visitor there and me wee devil, Jonny had not interest in my Monty Python obsession -- so he waited in the car (where it was drier). Here's me video (the end is messed up and scrambled, but I think it adds to the overall horror of it):

Wasn't that fun? On the way back home we stopped at the Deanston Distillery to take a pic. It was closed, but the whole block smelled of Scotch Whiskey.

JR in front of Deanston Distillery

We got hungry, so we stopped for some goodies at the local "Tesco" market. As we passed the long line at the cigarette counter, I just couldn't help but notice the EXTRA LARGE warning signs on the packs -- the ones that the customers waiting in line seemed to miss:

Wow ... £4.64 ($10) for a pack of killer cigs!

A LONG day, so time to go home and sleep.

Scotland 6th Day — July 4, 2008

2008-07-04T14:49:00.000-07:00

HAPPY BIRTHDAY AMERICA! I hope everyone had a lovely 4th of July –BANG–

'Tis another lovely morning with puffy white clouds and blue sky, and we've risen rather late, so we decide to stay in town and finally visit our beautiful castle next door — Stirling Castle. But first, since it's so pretty out, I thought I'd show you a few pics of our flat.

The view from our bedroom window

The outside of our flat (what used to be the officer's barracks of Stirling castle)

The view north towards the Wallace Monument

Stirling Castle (and wee-devil) in the foreground, and our flat on the far left in the background.

We begin our visit to the castle by taking a very informative tour, which gives us the background and history of the marvelous structure. I won't bore you with the details, but suffice it to say, that it was a historically important fortification and the site of many sieges and battles over the centuries. It also sits on its high volcanic rock, visible for many miles in every direction. Quite impressive...

Volcanic rock below the south side of Sterling castle

King Robert the Bruce was the heroic King of Scots who secured Scotland's independence from England in the late 13th century.

The Palace and Bowling Green gardens

In front of the Palace

More of the beautiful gardens and castle palace

View of the William "Brave Heart" Wallace monument from the castle

Turrets of the castle's main entrance

Turrets and Bowling Green

A Stirling lassie

A Stirling lad

After a long walkabout the gardens and grounds, we walked the two blocks back to our flat— but in the wee distance I hear bagpipes. I race back to find Mr. Robert MacDonald playing the pipes. He had just finished up, but at my kind request (more like pleading), he plays another song fer me. Aye, it is music to me ears...

Video of Mr. Robert MacDonald, piper extraordinaire

On me way down to the flat, I stop by for a wee visit with our downstairs neigbors, Alistair, Sarah, and their sons, Joshua and Matthew. They were just finishing a BBQ in the yard, and it smelled yummy. Jon came down from the flat to join us, and we all had a swell time.

Our friendly neighbors

When my stomach started to growl, it was a sign to go into town for some grub. We decided on a restaurant/bar called "The Wall", and I tried me hand at Scottish "Haggis." It sounds horrible, but it is rather good. Especially if it is prepared on top of some mash and smothered in whiskey gravy. Yummy. We also shared some steak pie with chips and overdone veggies. After our big "Scottish" meal we trodded our way back up the hill (huffing and puffing), and prepared to call it a night. Except, I forgot ....I need to write this blog, so here I am. And now...I go to sleep.

Scotland 5th Day — July 3, 2008

2008-07-03T17:20:00.000-07:00

Jon's first day of Scottish golf!

Sean Adams, a golf professional and friend of Janette and Steve kindly picks us up at 12:30 for a day of golfing at Culcrieff golf course in Crieff, which is in Perthshire on the southern end of the Scottish highlands. Sean is so friendly and welcoming (as all of the Scottish people have been so far), and goes about spending his whole day with us...what a guy!

The drive takes about 1/2 hour and is very scenic. We go through the town of Muthill, which is quaint, but has some strange halloween-type effigies hanging about town. Sean says it gives him the willies. I agree.

A Muthill Pagan effigy

Earlier, when we were checking Weather.com, we thought we were going to have rain all day. As a matter of fact, it was marvelous weather. Puffy-white clouds, blue sky, slightly warm -- couldn't ask for a better day for golf.

Culcrieff is breathtaking. I'll let the photos (and video) tell the story...

Video of Jonny getting some pointers from Sean on the first hole (including me best Scottish brogue)

Jonny and our new friend, Sean

Carrying clubs... golfing the ol' fashioned-way

The bonnie banks of Scotland!

Make the putt...

This one too...

Me wee devil, Jonny

Sean's swing

Did he make par?

Picture perfect

Great swing...and....

Jonny scores! (and his golf wasn't too shabby, either)

THANKS SEAN, FOR A BRILLIANT DAY!!

Scotland 4th Day — July 2, 2008

2008-07-03T15:22:00.000-07:00

Off to Edinburgh fer the day.

After brekies, we walk down our street and in 10 minutes we are at the Sterling train station. £7 for a round-trip ticket to Edinburgh, a great deal. It's about a 45-minute ride in a nice, comfortable rail car -- with no undesirables about. Couldn't ask fer more! We arrive in Edinburgh and the station is fab -- very European. Here's a photo of me wee devil, Jonny at the station...

Once out of the station, we hop on a tour bus to get acquainted with the city. Our informative guide tells us all about the city and it's famous castle. While touring the "Royal Mile" —which is name for the succession of streets which form the main thoroughfare of Edinburgh's Old Town—I am most fascinated by the "closes." A "close" is a narrow alleyway that runs south and north off the "Royal Mile." Each close has a name, usually associated with the owner of tenements on that close. More about the closes, later.

After our bus tour, we take a tour of Edinburgh's famous castle. The castle sits high upon a volcanic crag (as does our Stirling Castle), but dates back to 600 AD. It houses the Scottish crown jewels, and was where Mary, Queen of Scots gave birth to James VI, the future king of England. We had a great guide and really enjoyed the castle (although...I hate to say it, but I'm still partial to our castle here in Stirling).

After the tour, we took a walk down from the castle and shopped for Scottish goods...namely plaid scarves and whiskey. Tired and hungry, we pop into a local Italian restaurant. Good... but we thinks we will stick to Scottish fare whilst in Scotland.

Jonny & I high atop Edingburgh Castle

A curvy street in Edinburgh

Edinburgh at 10:30 p.m.

Posing in front of a gothic church

A scenic close

The entrance to Mary King's Close (shudder)

After the meal, I go out in search of "Mary King's Close" -- remember the "closes" I spoke of earlier? Well, I heard that this one was the most haunted in Scotland... so, of course -- I must explore it (and Jon goes along with the idea to humor me). We find it by stumbling across another ghost tour about to start. Mary King's close is completely underground -- used in the 16th century, vacated because many of it's inhabitants died of the black plague. It was shut down and then built upon, only to be discovered later. It was eerie and fascinating. I didn't come in contact with a ghost, but I swear, on our way back to our flat in Stirling, we walked up our VERY SCARY back alley at midnight and I took a pic. There is a mysterious orb-like light in the foreground. Orbs are usually found in areas of high "ghost activity".
You be the judge.........

Do you see the orb?

Scotland 3rd Day — Tuesday, July 1

2008-07-03T14:54:00.000-07:00

Jon awakes me at 11:30 am!! Apparently, the Sominex worked too well!! If feel that I have slept the day away, but I forget that the sun sets at 11 pm, so not all is lost. I cook a full "Scottish breakfast" -- eggs, bacon, pancakes, OJ, putter about and finally leave the house at 3pm (the "magic" hour)! Again, too late to get a full tour of the castle, and it's gray and drizzling out side, so we hop into the car and take a ride to the Wallace Monument. Since the weather is not-so-hot, we hike up the path and take in the view from the base of it. We will return for the tour and a better day, but it was a nice visit nontheless. They have removed the statue of William Wallace that looked like Mel Gibson. I don't blame them. The monument on it's own is quite spectacular, and they light it up at night. (I will post a photo of the monument later)

We then hop into the car and visit the town of Bridge of Allan and the local golf course. Very quaint, but keep in mind...it's still raining. We decide to head on back to the flat, and once there we walk a couple of blocks towards the castle in search of the famous "beheading stone", thought to have been used for capital punishments in the 15th century. We end up meandering in the local graveyard, and can't find the stone, but find several old gravestones with the preface of "here lieth." My favorite being —
" Here lies the body
Of Margaret Bent
She kicked up her heels
And away she went"

Off to the flat for a cup of hot tea and dinner.... another ham and cheese panini in the George Forman grill that I found...yummy. Tea and biscuits. At 10pm we decide to head on down to the local pub "The Settle Inn" for a pint or two. We meet George, the friendly Scottish bartender with bad teeth and a wry sense of humor. Jon goes about trying a few whiskeys, and decides he likes the local one "Deanston." I drink two half-pints of Stella Artois and meet up with a nice local lady named Christine, who tells me I MUST visit the Trossachs area. She tells me it's VERY romantic, with it's lochs and scenery, so I have now put that at the top of my list ----along with going on a haunted castle tour...of course. I pull out my camera to take a picture of George, and it is then that I notice that the memory card is corrupt. Which means ALL photos from the first 3 days of this trip are destroyed. Oddly enough, this seemed to happen AFTER Jon and I took a stroll through the local graveyard! I felt I was being respectful, but maybe not enough. I am sad, but a shot of whiskey should make me feel better.

Scotland 2nd Day — Monday, June 30

2008-07-03T14:44:00.000-07:00

Jon's first day of driving on the wrong-side of the car, on the wrong-side of the street, shifting with his left hand and navigating what seems like a "roundabout" at every corner! Quite a harrowing adventure, but we make in one piece to the car park in the center of town (whew!).

We decide to take a wee stroll on Port street and pop in for a bite to eat and a cup of coffee at Cisco's cafe. We start chattin' up the propieter, Bennie Tortolano. Quite a lovely fellow. Ends up he is half Italian, and his daughter lived in San Diego for quite awhile. He loved to go visit her and he misses his travels to California. He loves the old jazz standards and swing dancin', and did his best impression of Frank Sinatra. He brought up a subject having to to do with "only the good die young", and Jonny chimed in with "I guess I'll live a long time, then." Bennie's answer was "Oh, you're a wee devil, are ye?" So that is now what I call Jonny...."me wee devil." It's SO appropriate.

Subsitute photo of cute, Bennie Tortolano at Cisco's cafe

We proceeded to take a walk about the town, and passed many landmarks, including the old town jail, and the outside of the fabulous Stirling Castle. We will visit it later on, when we have more time to commit to it. We discover that our flat is in one of the most charming areas of Scotland - historically and visually. We are delighted. I am also feeling much better, and the Scottish whiskey helps heal me throat. We take off grocery shoppin' at about 8pm in search of "Tesco" market, but end up at Sainsbury's, which suits us fine. We buy £75 worth of grub (which translates to $160 dollars)....hopefully we will make good use of it. I find that some items are very expensive-- meats and certain veggies, but other items are very cheap -- you could buy a bottle of shampoo for 50 cents and a loaf of bread for a dollar! And the baked goods -- bread, biscuits, etc. are delicious! So much for the Atkins diet in Scotland! Of course, I buy some well-aged Scottish cheese and some local ham -- we are now set for Paninis for lunch every day!

We come home late and are greeted by our downstairs neighbor, Alistaire who kindly helps us bring up Jon's golf clubs that were misplaced by British Airways yesterday! What a nice chap. His wife is Sarah, and he has two young boys. We invited him up for a spot of tea, and we all talked until midnight. Quite a full, social day. And, since I have had trouble sleeping the past few nights, I decide to take a Sominex pill. Let's see how it works.

Scotland 1st Day — Sunday, June 29

2008-07-03T13:59:00.000-07:00

If some of you don't know already, Jon and I agreed to "house-swap" our home in the desert for a flat in Stirling, Scotland. It didn't take very long to decide to do this, since July in the desert is uninhabitable by most people's standards, and Scotland in the summer is grand and the sun sets at 11pm. Also, it has two of Jon's favorite things in life...golf and whiskey!

Beautiful Stirling Castle

I must first preface this entry by saying that I began journaling 3 days into the trip, and back-tracked. On the 3rd day, my camera card malfunctioned (yes David & Jake...that would be considered an Auntie Carolyn "technical difficulty"), and lost all photos of the first couple of days, so I will need to improvise.

Still fighting what I believed to be a flu, I tried to enjoy our "Upper Class" Virgin Atlantic seats from Boston to Heathrow. This proved to be a bit challenging, since my throat was on fire and I had the chills, so it was difficult to eat and sleep. I will hope to be healthier and in better spirits on the journey back. Once in Heathrow and through customs, we wound our way to the new, hip "Terminal 5" to catch our British Airways trip to Glasgow. We ended up on the last row of the plane, but it was a quick trip and we found our fellow house-swappers, Janette and Steve -- patiently waiting for us at baggage claim. Janette and Steve are a lively couple in their 30s and 40s (respectively), who work at a local school and have a long holiday off in the summer.

They proceeded to help us with our bags and drive us via the "scenic road" to their flat in Sterling -- which, by the way, happens to be next to this amazing 15th century castle! Janette's mum, Frances is there to greet us with a warm cup o' tea. Janette shows us around the flat -- which is quaint and tastefully decorated, and then they are off to the states. Jon & I take a long nap and when I discover that I have strep-throat -- decide to settle-in for the night.

Our fellow swappers Janette and Steve (Again, since I lost all me photos from the first two days, I took this pic from a photo in the living room. I think we did well in choosing them --- dont'ya think?)